What do stage clutches do

A stage 1 clutch usually uses Kevlar with organic compounds mixed in whilst stage 2 goes pure Kevlar. Stage 3 has a carbon semi-metallic six-puck disc while in stage 4, the hub also solidifies into a riveted one. Stage 5 is all about pure metallic discs and is perfect for extreme performance cars. A performance clutch is not needed for a car that takes you to the office and home on weekdays and hits the highways on the weekend.

You need a performance clutch only when racing on the track because engine temperatures in a tuned car can go way beyond what an ordinary clutch can handle. Track vehicles also need strong launch control, something that basically needs to keep the car stationary, with the engine revving at full RPM, to immediately launch into a high speed the moment the flag drops.

A normal clutch would slip too much to provide this kind of control. A stage 3 clutch is made for a serious driver and for cars that are tuned to the zenith, leaving stock far behind.

It comes with a heavy-duty pressure plate as well as a six-puck ceramic hub disc able to withstand tons of heat and allowing for faster engagement with no slipping. While some streetcars do find a use for it, you need to put it in a vehicle with high torque capacity, and it also comes in a three puck format.

Forget daily driving, a stage 3 clutch is what you need if you are serious about street, drag racing, pulling, and autocross use, and sometimes even drifting. A stage 3 clutch works in tandem with a tuned engine that has better air coolers or radiators to keep the engine temperature in check. In a normal car, the heat of the engine can lead a stage 3 clutch to misbehave and cause problems.

Both stage 1 and 2 clutches increase the engine's capacity for power and torque. However, a stage 2 clutch does so to a far greater extent than a stage 1 clutch.

The Spec stage 2 clutch, for example, can handle foot-pounds of torque in a GTI, when the manufacturer's clutch had previously only been able to handle foot-pounds of torque. This dramatically increases acceleration and ability to quickly climb hills, the purview of the lower gears. Stage 2 clutches require extra parts to make them compatible with the car. The Spec clutch mentioned above, for example, is too powerful for its car's original flywheel.

If it was put in on its own, it would quickly destroy the flywheel by putting too much pressure on it. If you use that car for anything other than racing, you won't have a good time, according to the folks at Team O'Neil Rally School. While a normal clutch features a springs and low-friction material used to absorb slipping and hard launches, a race clutch features ultra-grabby material that limit's the driver's ability to slip without overheating the disc.

Overheat it enough and your clutch and flywheel will actually fuse together, locking you out from controlling what gear you're in. In addition to hard launches and stress-filled hill starts, you'll also have to worry about stranding yourself on the road. Using a street clutch from a Jeep Cherokee and a race clutch from a Ford Fiesta, Team O'Neil gives you a visual descriptor on how the two work, what they're good at, and what they shouldn't be used for.

Watch for yourself.